Here at Book Barmy, we’re away right now. House, dog, pool, and BBQ sitting for friends in the East Bay. It’s tough work, but Husband and I are managing.
Perfect timing — weather is in the low 80’s and sunny while back in the city it’s a damp and foggy 56…
It’s well known here in the Bay Area that 30 miles = 30 degrees
The pool sitting is especially tiresome.
back next week
Husband and I aren’t very materialistic, we live modestly, don’t drive a fancy car, have but one television, and are known (and teased) for being quite frugal. “No, we didn’t get your text, we don’t have smart phones…really.”
But we do succumb to a few indulgences – books (natch), good food, wine ~~ and especially travel.
On a whim, and with a Groupon deal in hand (see, thrifty), last week we took off for a few days on the Russian River.
Our room overlooked the river, full and swift moving after all our winter/spring rains.
We went for a long hike in the redwoods
Did a bit of antique looking – just looking…
Visited a rose nursery and garden – again just looking (no more roses, someone kept muttering…)
And watched a drop dead beautiful sunset on the coast, where the river meets the ocean.
It’s not a large life – but for us, it’s a good life.
I’ve had a bit of a time away — not far – just down on the central coast of California.
Husband and I went to Paso Robles where the hills were green…
and there were lambs in the fields
wildflowers in bloom
trees in blossom
and wine to be sampled – as Paso was celebrating its ZinFest or Zinfandel Festival.
A good time was had by all. I read two books while down there, which when added to my backlog of Book Barmy posts means I must get busy. Lots of books to tell you about…soon.
Sorry for the radio silence here at Book Barmy, but we’ve been traveling again, our itchy feet never keep us down on the farm for long.
We’re back from Virginia (very sobering area — the Trump signs were astoundingly prevalent. Please vote folks), where we took a side trip to one of our favorite places ever ~~ Colonial Williamsburg.
We spent our honeymoon there many, many years ago — although even back then, it was still considered Colonial Williamsburg ~~ we’re not that old.
In case you’ve never been to this living museum – it is unlike any other. It doesn’t feel contrived or corny – it really does recreate the eighteenth century, when Williamsburg was, for a time, the center of government, education and culture for the Virginia Colony .
It was here that George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Patrick Henry and others reluctantly maintained the forms of British government and later helped adapt its best bits to the needs of the newly formed United States. Sorry I geeked out there for a moment ~~ end of history lesson. Can you tell I love this place?
The historic area has many original buildings as well as reconstructed ones, including period shops, taverns, the courthouse and Governor’s palace. The interpreters are true re-enactors and speak in period grammar and phrases. They represent period notables, as well as the common residents of Williamsburg – including slaves, gardeners, cooks, etc.
It’s a wonderful experience just to wander and feel like one has traveled back in time. Walking the brick sidewalks and exploring the little gardens behind the buildings.
But best of all, you may choose to stay in a colonial house…so you can sleep like this
With your very own garden view
And for the food (you knew that subject would come up didn’t you?), the four taverns serve period-based fare – candlelight only, if you please, and a minstrel to entertain while you eat.
Afterwards, you slowly wander back to your colonial home with lights twinkling in the windows and you swear you’ve gone back in time.
(Click to make bigger and better see the candlelit windows.)
Have I enticed you to go to Williamsburg? If so, more information HERE.
Books will return to Book Barmy in the coming days. I read a strange, but interesting, book and am halfway through a time travel novel. So that should keep you coming back.
Having just started to feel better, and with a renewed ability to breath, I realized I hadn’t posted some other tidbits about our non-hiking trip to the Eastern Sierras.
We stayed in the historic Heidelberg Inn which boasts an impressive open-sided fireplace in the lobby…imagine this in the winter with a roaring fire and cup of cocoa…yumm.
Many films in the 1930’s to 40’s were filmed here including Road to Utopia with Bob Hope. They say the bear on top of the lobby fireplace, has been there just as long. I must say, he was a little creepy coming up the stairs at night.
The Inn also has a great sense of humor…
I also didn’t share other photos of our hiking adventures – our first day out and then our forced march hike around the lake. Now that my head has cleared, I realize from looking at these photos that it was a lovely area, hot with no oxygen, but a very nice place to be. Evidence below:
Maybe Husband is right, next time take two weeks…
Over and out…
Husband and I just returned from a week up in the Eastern Sierras, namely, a place called June Lake.
Pretty right?
What you don’t see is the 8,500 foot altitude. We live at sea level, a few blocks from the ocean, so we expect to spend our first day acclimating.
From experience we’ve learned to take it easy that first day, wander around the area, taking short walks, gulping both water and oxygen.
Day 2 – we decide on a 4 1/2 mile round trip hike up (yes up!) to a hidden lake. The trail is described as moderate with a only a few steep grades. We agree it’s a perfect first hike. As we hiked we both realize something is wrong, we have sore throats, pounding headaches, and we are coughing loud enough to scare away wildlife sightings. I unearth our first aid kit from the pack and we gulp down aspirin and carry on.
A pretty hike, complete with visiting ducks for lunch —
but we are feeling poorly and stumble gratefully back down to our car. We have an early dinner and crawl into bed. We are unable to sleep, probably because we are unable to breath.
We finally admit, uh oh — we both caught colds.
I root through our seldom used travel medicine bag (we never get sick) and find two desiccated cough drops and some Sudaphed that expired in 2014. We throw caution to wind and gamely use both. (Note to self, perhaps it’s time to update said medicine bag.)
Day 3 – We slowly make our way through breakfast, heavy on the orange juice. We are staying here and thankfully have a little kitchen.
But, even our home base is in a plot against us – with an impressive amount of gasp-inducing stairs and no elevator.
We drive into the closest big town which boasts a Rite Aid with ski resort prices. We buy outrageously expensive (but unexpired) cold medicine and head back.
Day 4 – We do nothing, oxygen deprivation is serious, consider calling for emergency helicopter evacuation, but solider on drinking liquids, blowing our noses, napping and watching mindless daytime television.
We have a lovely view of the lake from our little apartment — but realize gazing at the view actually makes us feel worse.
Day 5 – Cabin fever has proven more serious than our colds, so we drive around and visit some little lakes that we can walk in and out of — never far from the car, water and Kleenex. Because we are able to breath a bit better today, we gamely decide to take a short hike tomorrow.
Day 6 – Husband gets up early and wanders down to the lake, upon returning, he declares that a hike around the lake would be perfect. A flat, nice, easy afternoon stroll. Did I mention we’re still at 8,500 ft? Well, I’m mentioning it.
So we set out. And it’s nice, we are actually able to talk, breathe and walk all at the same time. We watch a bald eagle careening in the blue sky and start to feel human again.
Dun Dun Doh…we come upon a huge rock face that is blocking our lovely little stroll around the lake. No problem says Husband, we’ll just go around.
So we clamber straight up this rock face until we find a service road and follow it until we can get back down to the lake.
Did I mention it’s 95 degrees and there’s no shade? Well, I’m mentioning it…
The lake continues to beckon, but we just can’t get back down to it for a least another mile on the service road. Back down at the lake, we make our way around until — drat — again rocks. Climbing back up now to the main road into town…another mile of hot tarmac until we can find our way back down to the lake again.
Did I mention, one half of our intrepid hiking party is an Eagle Scout and the other half is not amused? Well, I’m mentioning it.
We stagger into the lake’s marina, where Husband has a beer, and while I’d hoped for an icy cold Margarita, I settle for an ice tea. (I’ve discovered in these fishing towns the adult beverage of choice is beer, beer or beer. Trust me on this one, never order the house white wine.)
Thus restored, we climb the endless steps to our apartment.
Day 7 – Wake up feeling great, sun is shining, sky is blue and it’s time to pack and head home. On the drive back, Husband suggests “maybe next time we come for two weeks – that way we’ll have more time to get acclimated!”
Did I mention the other half is not amused?
Husband and I went down to the central coast of California for a few days to see the wildflowers, after all our rain and do some wine tasting (naturally). I’ll quickly share some photos (click to enlarge)
We took the back roads where spring has definitely sprung– yellow fields of wild mustard, western lilacs in bloom and even the live oak have green leaves. By June or July, all the green fields will turn brown in the brutal 100 degree heat of the central coast. So this is the time of year to go.
We went to one of our favorite wineries, Dark Star, to celebrate both the Paso Robles Zinfandel weekend and the owner’s birthday…there was even a very good band.
We slowly roamed the area, visiting different vineyards – one filled with lavender plantings and another with a view of Heart Hill. Everything was green, there were lambs frolicking in the fields, and we were ever so happy both from the beautiful weather and scenery and our afternoon wine tasting. Not a bad way to spend a couple of days in the central coastal region of Paso Robles and San Louis Obispo. This — we reminded ourselves — is why we live in California.
August 16
Sunday is market day, so we head straight out the door and around the nearest corner into the open market…husband and I can’t resist a market. And with Eric we buy ingredients for Sunday lunch (because it’s France and we eat lunch!).
After another wonderful lunch complete with wine from our winery visit the day before, we again take a rest – it’s Sunday and everything is closed.
In the late afternoon, husband joins Alain in his cave-like workshop in the lower part of the building. Alain has been building Adirondack chairs based on husband’s own hand-built versions on our deck. There was an impressive hammer that was just a bit too tempting after almost 4 weeks of traveling together.
Leaving the others to their woodworking project, Eric and I went for a long walk along the river Isere and just as the sun was setting, I got some photos of the bridge in the waning light.
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August 17
We take off for the day to visit the area around the Rhone Valley. Based on Eric and Alain’s recommendation we visit The Tour de Crest, the highest medieval keeps in France. The hot climb up inside was worth it for these views.
Then we found Mirmande – a “plus beau village of France”. (This list of villages in France is on my bucket list — complete listing HERE).
What is it about ancient stone villages? Husband and I are just drawn to them. Here’s Mirmande and oui, c’est tres beau, n’est pas?
We got back to Romans in time to take Eric and Alain out to dinner as a small thank you for their hospitality.
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August 18
We depart Romans sur l’Isere and say goodbye for now to Eric and Alain. They may come back to San Francisco some day, so we hope to see them again. We head slowly back to Lyon, taking the backroads and enjoying the drive. Sunflowers fields just gone past their bloom and ready for seed harvesting.
We visit the Abbey of St. Antoine near Valence and as we sat inside the cool Abbey, we were treated to a pipe organ practice which reverberated through our bones.
And, finally a late lunch at an outdoor cafe – it’s France – we eat lunch.
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From here on we were in transit, back to Geneva by train and then we flew home early the next morning.
We’re back home now, dealing with laundry, a bit of jet lag and emails.
But we’re left with that weary but happy feeling of having had a great adventure, but glad to be home the land of good showers, ice and your very own bed.
Thanks everyone for reading along. Now it’s back to books!
August 14
We sadly, pack up to leave Lausanne and take the train into Lyon, France – where we rented a car and drove south to Romans-Sur-l’Isere…why you may ask? Back in 2011, when we went back East for a family wedding, Eric and Alain had requested a home exchange just for that time. So they stayed in our home in what is called a non-simultaneous home exchange. We were happy, as our house was occupied during our trip and someday we would go to their home. This was the year.
Eric and Alain live in Romans Sur-l’Isere – a stone walled town dating back to the middle ages. Especially wonderful is that their apartment is on the 2nd floor of the oldest building (actually a hotel) in Romans, built in the 15th century. The building has a jaw dropping courtyard protected from the street and their home boasts ancient high ceilings and stone walls. Here they are in front of their apartment and then various photos of their charmingly eccentric home. (Check out our bedroom with the bed tucked into an old doorway.)
Because Eric and Alain were not traveling we had the pleasure of having them around. We stayed in their guest room and they served us a delicious dinner complete with an apricot crumble that cooled on the courtyard windowsill while we ate.
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August 15
Husband and I go exploring the town but under strict orders to be back by 1pm – because it’s France and we have lunch. We are also asked to bring back bread, as it must be fresh every day. The town has a fun clock tower where the man hammers the bell every hour. There is town artwork which commemorates the towns later role as a major shoe manufacturer (there’s even a shoe museum – we gave it a pass.)
After lunch we were instructed to go and rest – which we did happily – and then in the late afternoon Eric and Allen took us on hike up to a small chapel that overlooked the Rhone River valley. We ended the day at a local winery.
Aug 12
Very hot here, so we decide to head up and explore one more ancient little village — St. Saphron. It seems to be a little sort of artist community, see the surprise over the fence. Lovely and cool in the town, and as we climbed for a better view we discovered that the vines have now all been covered with netting to prevent the birds from eating all the grapes.
We then decide to head for the hills and a tower overlook on top of one the hills here. We’d gone up there before but didn’t indulge in the great family style cafe at the top. They are known for their fondue and cream desserts.
So we sat under the awnings enjoying the breezes from up there and had fondue and shared some local rose wine for our Linner.
Linner is our own made up word — like brunch – only lunch+dinner – usually taken in the late afternoon. Attention all you hard working cooks out there, this is a great way to skip cooking dinner.
Finally remembered to take a photo of our apartment building, ours is the second level, far left where the two white awnings are down.
Note: This will be the last post for awhile. We leave early Friday morning for the Lyon, France area and won’t have regular access to a computer. Stay tuned, I will update Travel Barmy with our last week of photos and stories when we’re back in San Francisco. Thanks everyone for reading along.